On my recent trip to India, we took a day trip down to Agra from Delhi renting a car and driver for under $100. It was my first time visiting Agra in over 10 years and it’s always a breath-taking experience. To see the Taj Mahal up close is truly an incredible experience that leaves you in awe at the skilled craftsmanship of these 17th century builders and architects. Makes you wonder if we can even reproduce something like this with all the technological and scientific progress in the past 400 years.

The one thing that has changed since I last visited is the sheer number of people that come visit this city. Thousands of tourists from around the world and the country seemed to have flocked to the city the day we were there. Perhaps being a Saturday and a couple days before Holi might have explained the large number of Indian tourists. I was also very shocked and dismayed by the dirty, crowded streets leading up to the Taj – street peddlars and store clerks harassing you, anorexically thin camels and horses used to transport tourists to the entrance gates and the smell of camel and horse feces that permeates the air.

Ignoring this rather unwelcoming aspect, a visit to Agra is an absolute must for anyone visiting North India and will leave you spell bounded at the culture, history and architecture of the city.

9AM: Sikander Fort

Built in the early 17th century, this is also known as the Tomb of Akbar the Great, where the great Mughal king was buried. It’s architecture is typical of the tombs built during this period with an elaborate gateway leading into a long wide path up to the monument. Built with marble and sandstones (rocks common at this time) it is amazing in its intricacy and detail – form the minute carvings on pillars and walls to the macroscopic symmetry and beauty of the entire structure.

11AM: Taj Mahal

There isn’t much to add to this man made wonder as words and pictures can’t describe the how breath taking this monument is. Built in nothing but snow white marble, this awesome structure stands out as the jewel of architecture during the Mughal period. The microscopic and macroscopic beauty is astounding and to think that this was built more around 400 years ago with none of the tools, machines and technology available today. To quote a witty T-shirt found all over India: “Via Agra – Man’s greatest erection for a woman”.

3PM: Red Fort

This massive fort, originally the built by the Rajputs in the 11th century, was made the capital of the Mughal Empire by Akbar during the 16th century. You can spend an entire day walking through the various “wings” of this fort in awe of the architecture and layout. It has been well preserved by the Indian government and provides a beautiful glimpse into life during these golden years of India.

Continued from Day 1.

Day 2

10:30 PM

The Spice Box offers a great introductory Indian cooking class (also featured in the Lonely Planet) where the cooking instructor, Shakti Singh, explains the basics of curries used in most Indian dishes in a very lively and amusing manner. He makes up for his grammatically incorrect English in the jokes and amusing delivery of the class. I am psyched to try what I’ve learned in this class so expect to see some recipes on this blog soon as I experiment with these new techniques. Call in advance in order to reserve a space on for his class as they tend to sell out quickly. Towards the end of the class you also get to eat your creations (for better or worse) and enjoy other dishes prepared by the class staff.

2 PM

After lunch head over to the Bagore Ki Haveli which is an old mansion in the Rajasthani sense. Haveli’s are mini-palaces or mansions built by the wealthy that have some amazing architecture. Bagore Ki Haveli sits on the banks of the Pichola lake and has been converted into a museum that gives you a glimpse of the lives the rich and famous led in the eighteenth century. Do not miss the world’s largest turban on display here in a glass case. After taking a tour of the haveli, you can walk down to the banks of the lake and see how life in this city centers around this lake; from local fishermen fishing, to people bathing, to women doing their laundry by the lake bank.

Rajasthan is known for its miniature paintings – finely detailed water based paintings or illustrations developed during the mughal empire. You will see these paintings for sale at virtually any store in Udaipur as they are popular souvenirs for tourists. In Udaipur, there are a few places where you can even take miniature painting classes and create your own little illustrations on silk. Classes are usually an hour long and it is recommended to call in advance to select a time.

6 PM

Relax at the Sunset View Cafe in the City Palace. Here you can enjoy a chilled Kingfisher beer while taking in a beautiful serene sunset over the Aravali Hills and Pichola lake. A splendid way to unwind after a somewhat educational day.

8 PM

After enjoying a Rajasthani sunset, head over to Udaivillas for dinner. This lavish hotel, built on land leased from the king, does an oustanding job of making you believe you have been transported back in time as royalty in this land of kings. The outdoor restaurant here is right on the banks of the lake with a beautiful view of the City Palace and Lake Palace. Enjoy a great Rajasthani and Mughlai feast under the stars as you are entertained by live Rajasthani music and dance.

For more pictures of this trip check out my flickr set.

Udaipur is a beautiful little city tucked away in the southern part of Rajasthan, India. The state of Rajasthan is well known for its exquisite architecture, abundant forts and palaces, unique history and brilliant colors. The historical old city of Udaipur, often referred to as the City of Lakes due to the predominance of a few large lakes in its landscape, has a pastel palette that contrasts nicely with the immensely colorful dresses and accessories worn by the locals. Due to a drought that has lasted for 2 years now, the lakes aren’t at the same levels they used to be but still add a lot of character and beauty to this picturesque city.

Day 1

10:00 AM

The City Palace: This enormous pastel yellow palace is the city’s primary palace that was inhabited by the many kings who ruled here for centuries and a section of it is still used as a residence for the current King (now just a figure head). A large part of the palace has been converted into a museum allowing visitors to examine closely the insides of the palace and its beautiful architecture. The exquisite detail that you see in every pillar, courtyard and baclony is jaw dropping and to know that it was all built by hand centuries ago is unfthomable. You can catch amazing views of the entire city of Udaipur from parts of the palace. This can be a crowded destination so I recommend visiting the palace on a weekday if possible.

Just outside the City Palace is a beautiful marble temple called the Jagdish temple. This temple erected in honor of the hindu god Vishnu, has intricate carvings all around its outer walls and soars 79 feet high. Inside the main structure is a large paryer area with idols of the Gods in the front (common to all hindu temples) and if you are lucky you can catch a puja or prayer in progress. During the puja, many elderly women from the city gather here in beautifully colored saris, singing bhajans or religious songs.

1:00 PM

Get a bite to eat at any of the roof top restaurants in the old city. Enjoy some traditional Mughlai or Rajasthani food while taking in a view of the city from above. A few places to check out are Ambrani and Savage Garden.

3:00 PM

Once you’re done with lunch, head on over to the maze of streets in this ancient city and get lost shopping the colorful stores that line them. Here you will find anything from beautiful hand-made wall tapestries to Rajasthani miniature paintings (intricate hand made paintings made on silk), from ornate jewelery to bright and vibrant shoes. You can spend a whole day enjoying all that these little stores have to offer. A tip to the inexperienced – make sure to bargain everything as store owners usually quote a starting price of 2-3x what they might be willing to sell at.

9:00 PM

After resting for a couple of hours, head over to Jagat Niwas Palace for a romantic dining experience under the stars, enjoying a view of the Lake Palace and its surroundings. Be sure to call in advance and make reservations as this restaurant can get crowded. The fish here is known to be excellent and is caught locally from the lake.

Click here for Day 2.

This post is a continuation from the one before. For more pictures of my trip check out my Flickr Set.

Day 2

11AM: Cooking Empanadas

Being highly recommended on tripadvisor, we decided to give this a go and were very pleasantly surprised. Teresita’s empandas class is a great escape from the city’s hustle bustle and a unique opportunity to spend an afternoon at a local’s house learning how to make great empanadas. Be sure to make reservations in advance for this class as they tend to sell out quickly. Teresita, an extremely friendly, warm and hospitable woman, lives about an hour out of the city in greater Buenos Aires. You can take a train or bus to get to her house in Androgue (just outside the city). There you’ll find a quaint little cottage in a sleepy suburban town with a large shady backyard filled with beautiful orchids, massive trees with low hanging branches and humming birds hovering around bird feeders for a quick refreshment. The class begins almost immediately when you enter. Teresita introduces herself and ushers you into her kitchen and gives a warm introduction of herself and before you know it you have your hands wrist deep in a large bowl of flour (after they’ve been cleaned of course). This hands-on class is a fantastic way to learn how make Argentine empanadas of various kinds. The best part is you get to eat your spoils while sipping on local wines all in the comfort of her backyard as you exchange stories about life, family and travels with her and other travelers and forget for a second that she is not your grandmother. An absolutely delightful and unique experience.

4PM: Plaza de Mayo & Casa Rosada

Taking the bus back into Buenos Aires provides a great way to get a siesta in after filling up on empanadas and wine. The bus will drop you off near El Centro, the center of the city. Here you can walk around and see Plaza de Mayo – a historic plaza with the Casa Rosada (or Government House – the seat of the executive branch) at the center of it. You can take a guided tour of Casa Rosada if you so choose and learn a lot of Argentinian history.

730PM: Complejo Tango – Tango Lessons, Show and Dinner

After you have recovered and rested from the empanadas and wine, get ready for some more wine. After all this is Argentina. Make reservations for this tourist attraction in advance as well as it can sell out quickly. This is a great opportunity to not only take in a tango show while enjoying a hearty dinner but also learn some basic tango moves – valuable for the time-constrained tourist. While the class can get crowded making it rather difficult to dance in the cramped studio, the show is fantastic providing an initimate viewing of various tango styles from classical to modern. The dinner is also a pre fixed fare with all you can drink malbec that does not disappoint.

Also recommended: Shopping in Palermo Soho, Running tour of Buenos Aires – unique offering for tourists that combines a guided tour of parts of the city with a decent workout (something you crave after the massive amounts of food and wine you consume).

Having spent a week in beautiful Buenos Aires, I thought I would try to provide some recommendations on things that I enjoyed and heard about (condensed into a small 48 hour itinerary for the sake of creating a theme). The best advice I can give anyone visiting Buenos Aires is to go on an empty stomach and be prepared to wine & dine like royalty. Food and wine are cheap, plentiful and absolutely fantastic. Argetinians are also extremely warm, friendly and expressive people – not dissimilar to their Italian counterparts. In fact there is a saying that an Argentine is an Italian who speaks Spanish.

It is also advisable to visit the city around October-November as it’s spring in the southern hemisphere and temperatures in Bs.As usually hover around 75 degrees F. Also, the city’s countless jacaranda trees are in full bloom during this time highlighting the streets with a shade of purple thats very photogenic.

Day 1

10AM: San Telmo Street Fair

On Saturdays, San Telmo is bustling with local artisans, bands and tourists. All along Defensa street, you will find tons of arts and crafts stalls selling everything from paintings, to flip flops to leather jackets to souvenirs. On practically every street corner you will also find bands playing live music from all over the continent. This is a great place to spend your saturday afternoon taking in the local culture. A much recommended stop for coffee and a quick bite is El Balcon which is a dingy cafe that sits above San Telmo plaza and provides a nice view overlooking the fair as well as free tango shows (very touristy and nothing fantastic about the food but its a nice experience).

3PM: Cemetery and Recoleta

The rich and famous rest in peace in this beautiful and immense cemetery located in Recoleta; the “Beverly Hills of Buenos Aires” as described by one affable cab driver. One can get lost walking the streets and alleys of this cemetery that are lined with large intricate forts containing coffins of past presidents, icons, blue blooded families and other movers and shakers of this country. This is also where Eva Peron‘s body has been buried along with Sarmiento.

After getting your morbid fill of coffins, walk outside the cemetery down Avenide Alveara and walk past the hotel. Keep walking down this road (very reminiscent of the Upper East Side in NYC) and you will see some beautiful apartment buildings and architecture as well as some high end clothing stores. If you see an ice cream parlor or heladeria, stop by and grab one, they are all over the city and excellent – similar to the gelatos in Italy.

9PM: Dinner at La Cabrera

What good is a trip to Bs.As without tasting some of the local beef. Venture into Palermo Viejo (the trendy part of town reminscient of SoHo) and stop by La Cabrera. This is one of the most popular steak houses in the city – so much so that they had to open up a sister restaurant right down the street from the original one. Walk in to the restaurant and it is like a carnivores heaven – pictures of cows on the wall detailing every cut of beef, with cow skins as carpets. I recommend ordering the bife de lomo (tenderloin) cooked a punto (medium rare). It is large enough to be shared by two and worthy of being a meat-eaters last meal. But you also can’t go wrong with anything else on their menu. Be sure to ask the knowledgable wait staff for a good a malbec recommendation. A dinner like this will put you back a mere $30!

Also recommended: the street fair in recoleta & the metal tulip sculpture Floralis Genierica (the petals of which open and close with sunrise and sunset)

See Day 2.

Here’s another great clean-out-the-fridge recipe that’s both nutritious and comforting. Having a lot of various vegetables left over from a recent BBQ, I thought of throwing them all together in a one-pot chicken and rice dish. So without further adieu, here’s the recipe:

Serves 4:

Heat up a tablespoon of vegetable oil in a dutch oven on high heat. While the pot heats, take about 1 lb of boneless and skinless chicken breasts and season them with salt and pepper. Once the pot starts to smoke, toss the chicken breasts in and let cook for about 4-5 minutes on each side. While the chicken cooks, chop up about half of a large red onion, a few cloves of garlic (to taste), a handful of baby portabella mushrooms and some ginger (approx a tablespoon’s worth).

Once the chicken is seared on both sides, remove it from the pot and place on a plate to the side. On a low-medium heat, add another tablespoon of vegetable oil and toss in the chopped aromatics, mushrooms and half a teaspoon of salt. Once the onions become translucent (approx 8-10 minutes) add in a cup and a half of long-grain rice. Also add a tablespoon of cumin and half a teaspoon of ground red pepper to give the dish additional depth. Mix the rice well with the pot and let it absorb the flavor for about 3 minutes. Pour 3 cups of chicken broth  into the pot and bring to a simmer. Cover and let the rice cook for about 10-12 minutes on low heat.

Add the chicken back into the pot, along with a can of chickpeas (rinsed), a cup of chopped tomatoes and 2-3 tablespoons of chopped cilantro. Let everything cook for another 5-7 minutes while stirring periodically. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve hot.

This got me thinking that what if my music player had the ability to version my most frequently played songs playlist and display it to me as a timeline. Similar to a versioning repoaitort where it would automatically take a snapshot of my playlist on a daily or weekly basis. I could then go back to any in time of my life and see what I was listening to then!

This seems like something that should already exist. If you know of a service that does this do let me know as I’d love to try it out.

On my trip to Bucaramanga, I learned that toasted ants are a popular delicacy amongst the locals there (and have been gaining global popularity). However, I didn’t get the chance to actually see them while I was there. So Maria brought back some with her when she came back. My first reaction was that the ants were humongous. Way bigger than any other ants I’ve ever seen before. After summoning up some courage to give them a try, I picked up an ant and bit into it. Surprisingly, it wasn’t that bad. The ants are heavily salted and crunchy so which pretty much masks any other “ant” flavor that you might be expecting to taste.
Reading about it some more, I came across this:

The people of sun-soaked northern Colombia have been eating ants for
centuries. They believe the accurately named “hormiga culona”—big-butt
queen ant—is everything from a natural form of Viagra to a protein-rich
defense against cancer. http://www.livescience.com/strangenews/ap_060813_eat_ants.html

I recently got back from Bucaramanga, Colombia visiting Maria’s family. It’s one of the smaller cities on Colombia (Bogota, Medellin, Cali being the larger metropolitans) but a very tranquil and beautiful place. The weather is a gorgeous 73-75 degrees year around, the people are extremely warm, the guaro flows freely (and I mean that literally as well-  parties that give out a unlimited bottles of liquor!) and the food is simply amazing (pictures coming soon). It was also nice to see how Christmas is celebrated in a predominantly catholic country and in a warm climate (my first time since I was 7). The highlight of the trip however was zip-lining over beautiful mountains and canyons at Panachi, a national park in Chicamocha which is about 1450m above sea level.

Coming back from that to the cold New York winter was definitely a nice slap in the face.